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This Month in the Garden: DECEMBER Apply broadleaf weed control for winter weeds
(chickweed, henbit, wild onion/ garlic. Follow label directions for restrictions and temperature requirements. Apply only
if weeds are visible. Middle of December is that end of the time you can successfully plant spring blooming bulbs. Be sure to remove all leaves
from lawn area. Keep an eye on houseplants which had been stored outside during warmer weather for signs of insects. You may want to
fertilize them, use only a small amount of fertilizer and don’t fertilize often. Relax with a warm drink and settle down with
your gardening catalogs. Dream of what joy the garden will bring to you next year!
JANUARY Transplant Shrubs, trees, perennials, and groundcovers while they
are dormant this month. Protect your plants in snow by shakings gently to prevent breakage from weight of snow. Be sure water and food are
available to encourage birds into your landscape. This is a great time to start brainstorming new planting areas and projects
for the yard. Draft a planting plan for your spring vegetable garden. Think of all those luscious eatables you will produce for yourself!
Order any seeds you may need.
FEBRUARY
Between
mid-February and mid March apply broadleaf weed control for winter weeds (Chickweed, henbit, wild onion/garlic) .Follow
label for restrictions and temperature requirements. Apply only if weeds are visible. Apply horticultural dormant oil
to most shrubs to protect from insects. Follow label directions for usage and temperature limits. Fertilize fescue lawns by the
15th. Use a slow release fertilizer that also contains pre-emergence crabgrass control in it. If you’re planning
to re-seed this spring do not apply pre-emergence. Make an application of palletized lime to the lawn every 2-3 years, or according
to soil test. Cut back Liriope (monkey grass) to the ground. Other ornamental grasses can be cut back to 4”-6” to promote
new growth in spring and summer. Prune back perennials to promote new growth in spring. After cutting back grasses and perennials transplant
and/ or divide them if needed. In late February, prune most broadleaf evergreens, deciduous trees, and shrubs. Remove any
dead twigs, shape and reduce size if needed. Consult pruning books for guidance on specific varieties. In late February, butterfly bushes
can be cut back to approximately 1’ off the ground. This will allow it to flush out in the spring, and encourage more
blooms in the summer. Began planting trees, shrubs and groundcovers. Water plants that were planted this winter if it has been dry. Tune up your lawn mower and sharpen
blades. Many
seeds can be started this month that will produce flowers and veggies for the summer. Refer to seed packets for specifications
in germination. Try giving plants to friends or family this year for Valentines Day. If it’s a tree or shrub, really make their
day by planting it for them!
March Replenish mulch or pine needles, where needed. Apply
a pre-emergent weed control on top of new mulch to prevent weeds from germinating. Follow label directions. If you have thin or bare areas in your
yard, reseed them this month. If you to this though, you cannot apply pre-emergence crab-grass control as well. By the 15th, apply slow release
fertilizer with pre-emergence crabgrass prevention to fescue lawns if it is not done in February, and if you are not putting
out grass seed at this time.Begin mowing this monthContinue to plant trees, shrubs, and groundcovers. Water thoroughly when planted, and continue to water throughout the growing season every week if we have not had 1”
of soaking rain. This time of year thunderstorms
occur, which can dump a lot of rain in a short amount of time. This moisture usually is run-off and does not soak into the
ground. Don’t let these quick rains fool you on your watering schedule. Fertilize established trees and shrubs with a fertilizer
that is higher in nitrogen. Prune and fertilize Camellia japonicas after blooming. Use fertilizer formulated for acid loving plants.In late March . prune Roses (floribundas, hybrid teas, and grandifloras) to approx. 15’-18’,
leaving 3-5 strong canes/ begin rose spray program as soon as new growth occurs. Follow label directions. This program of spraying should continue all summer.With everything going on outside this month, don’t forget to take some time to watch all of the exciting college
basketball games going on this month. You gotta love March madness!
APRIL Apply
broadleaf weed control for summer weeds (Clover dandelion, etc.) Follow label directions for usage and restrictions. Spray weeds in beds and natural areas
with a non-selective herbicide. Follow label directions. Apply only if weeds are
visible. It is much easier to continue this practice all season, when needed, then to wait until mid-summer when weeds will
be much larger, causing you to use more chemicals and more of your time Spray Azaleas, Pyrocantha, Pieris, and rhododendron in late April for control
of lacebugs. . Follow label directions. You may need to make 3 applications 7-14
days apart. When new growth begins on trees and shrubs, check for presence of aphids,
spider mites, or chewing insects. Spray with a recommended control based on insects and plants. Follow
label directions. Continue mowing fescue lawns to no less than 3” in height. Browning
of grass will occur from moisture loss if grass is cut too short. Fertilize warm season grasses (Bermuda
/ Wiregrass), begin planting annuals, perennials, and summer vegetables. If creating a new planting area, incorporate fertilizer,
soil conditioners, and compost before planting for the best growth.If
you choose to apply water-soluble fertilizer, (i.e. Miracle Grow) remember to re-apply every 2-3 weeks. Continue to plant trees, shrubs,
and groundcovers. Remember to water with a slow, deep watering during growing season.After new areas are planted and mulched, apply pre-emergence weed control on top of mulch to
prevent summer weeds form germinating. After blooming, prune and fertilize Azaleas with a fertilizer formulated
for acid loving plants. Baseball season starts, be sure to enjoy this great American sport!If it seems to rain every time you try to go out side, don’t fret---
remember that April shower bring May flower!
May Spray
Camellias with a systemic insecticide in late May to destroy scale insects in their crawler stage. Follow label
directions. If mulch has not been replenished to 3” deep, do so now for moisture
retention, and the reduction of weed growth. Pre-emergence weed control can be applied on top of mulch to prevent summer weeds
from germination. This will not work on existing weeds and Bermuda grass. Continue to water
if necessary. A long, slow watering is better than daily sprinkles to get water completely to the roots. Monitor
your fruit and vegetables to disease and/or pests. Treat as needed. Follow label directions. In
mid-May, plant summer blooming bulbs like caladiums, Elephant Ears, Gladiolus, and Dahlias. Flowers
are a great way to say “Happy Mothers Day”!
June Watch
for Japanese beetles emerging this month. Spray affected plants with liquid Sevin. Follow label directions. This
will need to be repeated. Beetle traps can be used, but sometimes will attract not only the beetles from your property, but
from the whole neighborhood, causing an even bigger problem. Keep an eye out for bagworms on such evergreens as Junipers,
Arborvitaes, and Leyland Cypress. If possible, pick them off and destroy, or spray if necessary with an appropriate treatment.
Follow label directions. Continue to monitor fruit and vegetables plants for insects and/or
disease. Treat as needed. Follow label directions. Continue treating your Roses for powdery
mildew, black spot, and insects. Follow label directions. Also remove any spent blooms by pruning
the branch back to a set of 5 leaves to encourage re-blooming. Prune Climbing Roses after blooming. Cut out crossing,
diseased, or dead canes, leaving3 or 4 strong young canes. This will help to promote blooming for next year. Fertilize warm season
grasses (Bermuda / Wiregrass) again with a slow release fertilizer. If you go to an extended vacation this summer, don’t
forget to have someone water your containers, hanging baskets, and newly planted shrubs. Why not give dad some
cool new tool that will help him in the yard for Fathers Day!
July AUGUST Continue
to spray broadleaf weeds in mulched areas with a non-selective herbicide. Follow
label directions. Continue spraying Bermuda (wire) grass in fescue lawns with glyphosate (Round
Up Pro) in preparation for fall re-seeding. Follow label directions. Prune shrubs and trees
one last time for the year ,if necessary, to retain shape and reduce size Fertilize warm season grasses (Bermuda/
Wiregrass) one last time for the year with a slow- release fertilizer.
Featured Plant of the MonthDECEMBER 2009Holly Hollies are one of the most widely
used plants in the landscape, the range in size from low foundation plants like the “Soft Touch" at 2’ tall,
to screening tree size like the “Nellie R. Stevens” at 15'-20'. There is a holly for almost every landscape need!
Hollies that set berries are female hollies, and need a male nearby to produce the most showy berry set. It is not necissary
to plant a male Holly as there are plenty of native male hollies to pollinate your female Hollies! There are a few divisions or types when it comes to Hollies: Chinese hollies (Ilex cornuta), having
shiny spinney leaves, some varieties include: “Burford” Holly: these may grow to as
large as 20' tall and wide. These set a very heavy crop of red berries. “Dwf Burford” holly:
Similar to “Burford” holly but smaller growing to more like 8’ tall and wide. “Carissa”
Holly: grows to 3-4' high and 4-6’ wide. Dense shrub not a berries producer, and has been known to revert back to “Rotunda”,
prune those branches out right away to prevent this. “Rotunda”: Compact grower 3-4”
tall and 6-8” wide. Not known to produce berries. The spiniest of the hollies! Down right evil to prune!
Japanese Hollies (Ilex crenata), these have small leaves like a boxwoods leaves, some varieties include: "Compacta" holly: grows
to 3'-4' tall rounded shrub, dense grower. Use for a taller foundation shrub. "Soft Touch" Holly:
A low growing to 2’ tall and 3’ wide has tiny leaves on new growth and branches are bendable unlike other Ilex
crenuta selections. "Helleri" Holly: grows to 4’ tall and 5’ wide but is slow growing.
Helleri is sensitive to poor drainage. “Sky Pencil” Holly: Columnar plant that grows to 6’
tall and only 10” wide. Used as an accent plant, and as height interest.
American Holly: Native to eastern
U.S. growing into a densely pyramidal shape to 40-50’ tall plants! American Hollies have been crosses with Chinese Hollies to produce some of the best Hollies on the market!
Some of which include: “Emily Bruner Holly”: densely pyramidal form growing to 12-15’ tall
and 10-15’ wide has prominently toothed dark green leaves and large red berries. “Nellie R. Stevens”,
the south’s most popular large holly! Fast growing to 15-20’ tall and 10’ wide with sparsely toothed dark
leathery leaves. Sets fruit without a pollenizer, but produces more with a male holly near by. Good for the corner planting
of a home, or even a s a screen planting! One of the best hollies for the south!
There are many other fine selections of Hollies, these are just a few to get you
started.
Featured Plant of the Month JANUARY 2010 Nandina Have you seen a shrub around that has red, lime and rich green
foliage all on the same plant? Not only is the foliage a stand out in the landscape, but in fall it has bunches of
red berries! You my friend have found a southern favorite, the Nandina! The Nandina is a sturdy, tough, drought tolerant
shrub. This plant is often found in abandoned landscapes thriving with no care at all! No serious pest problems!
Nandinas will grow
in sun or shade, although when growing them in shade, they do not redden up as well as in full sun. Renew neglected clumps by
cutting one-third of the main stalks to the ground each for 3 years. Cut a sprig of Nandina to add to arrangements!There are many varieties of Nandinas on the market, some of the more common ones are: Nandina Domestica: grows to 6’-8’ tall, and has the
best red berry clusters. “Fire Power”: grows 2’ tall and wide. This is the dwarf Nandina
that grows in a tight ball, and is small enough for a foundation planting. “Harbor Dwarf”: Grows 2-3’
tall. Foliage has a orange-red, bronze-red tint in winter. “Gulf stream”: grows slowly to 3-3 ½’ and only 1 ½’
wide, not a berry producer, not suckering. New growth is copper colored. “Alba”: grows 6’ tall plus, 3-5’ wide. These have creamy
white berries instead of red.
Featured
Plant of the Month FEBRUARY 2010 Hellebores (Lenten Rose)
Hellebores are distinctive, long-lived plants that add color
to the shady corner of your garden. The flowers persist during the dreariest of months above their ferny evergreen foliage.Flowers are usually bell or cupped shaped and outward or nodding downward. Hellebores
are deer and rodent resistant, as well as drought tolerant after they are established. Varying in size,
there is one just the size you need, Hellebores are clumping and slower growing so you will not be overwhelmed or over crowded
by these winter beauties. Its best not to
move your Hellebores once you have planted them, they are unhappy being transplanted. ForsythiaOtherwise
known as the “Yellow Bell” in the south.The Forsythia
is a deciduous shrub, reaching 8-10’ tall usually with arching branches full of yellow bell shaped flowers covering
stems.It has been in southern gardens so long it is assumed
to be a native plant, though it is originally from China. Cheerful masses of yellow blooms in March always remind me that
winter is leaving and spring is just around the corner. February is time to cut some branches and put in vases in the house
to force blooms.Forsythia look great in borders or when planted
with masses of spring bulbs. However Forsythia shrubs should not be planted in foundation plantings as it will quickly out
grow its spot. If you need to move your Forsythia, it transplants well and is quick growing. It also roots well from cuttings.
Prune after booming.No disease or pest problems plague the Forsythia,
and deer will not seek out your yellow bell. If they do munch on it, the Forsythia is quick to recover. Featured
Plant of the Month MARCH
2010 Camellia japonica Are you looking for a bigger, evergreen shrub to provide some color in the early spring? Camellia
japonicas can do this for you! They have dark glossy thick leaves. The flowers of
the Camellia japonica can be: white, pink, red, rose, or even variegated. Here are a few varieties of Camellia japonica you
may want to look into: “Jacks”:
this is a rose pink color with a medium sized double bloom, very impressive perfection on each individual flower, a must see! “Debutante”: this has a medium sized double bloom in a deep salmon
– rose color that is often streaked with lighter pink. Expect these blooms to be bursting mid season.“White by the Gate”: A white semi double, medium sized bloom. Very vigorous bloomer! “Professor Sargent”: Glowing dark red, peony form vigorous bloomer,
free flowering, blooms early season. Site selection for your lovely Camellia japonica requires some particular
needs:Camellia japonica in excessive sun, cold, or shade can reduce flowering.
Camellias, like Azaleas are acid loving plants, and enjoy a moist well drained soil also. Avoid
placing your Camellia japonica in full sun against hot surfaces. Camellias can grow to be 15’ tall, so pick a location
appropriately! Like Azaleas, when we have a late spring frost, the blooms may be affected, so if possible,
you may want to cover your Camellias from frost if the buds are about to break and there is a frost advisory.
Featured Plant of the MonthAPRIL 2010 Phlox subulata: Old Southern favorite to 6” high, 11/2’ or wider with needle like evergreen leaves. Blooms in late spring,
early summer creating a carpet of in ¾” flowers of white, pink or lavender blue. Phlox is a mainstay in the rock
garden. Prune your Phlox plant half way back after blooming. Some of the better varieties are: - “Emerald Blue”:
light blue flowers on bright green foliage.
- “Apple Blossom”: White
with ruby eye, heavy bloomer.
- “Drummonds Pink”: On of
the best pinks available, prolific bloomer.
Red
Bud Trees : Red Buds, or
trees of the Ceris family are developed from the native trees found blooming after the early Cherries and before the Crabapples. They
bloom at the woods edge under the Pines and Cedars along side the Dogwoods. Red
buds in general have heart shaped leaves and in spring are covered in small sweet-pea shaped flowers which are lavender-pink
to rosy-purple. Some of
our favorite varieties include:
May 2010 Annual Dianthus- chinensis, biennial or short lived perennial grown as an annual. Grow
6-18” tall in pinks, red or white from spring to fall. When
planting these Dianthus space 6” apart in sun to partial shade.
Perennial Dianthus- gratianopolitanus (D. caesius) Neat, compact mounds of blue-grey
to green-grey foliage with erect 9-12” tall flowering stems produce 1 ½” fragrant flowers, usually pink
to rose single flowers. If dead headed regularly, these dianthus will bloom from spring to fall. Use these Dianthus in rock
gardens, groundcover, or edging. Your Dianthus are tolerant of the summer heat and humidity of the south.
A couple of our favorite perennial Dianthus are: - “Baths Pink”-
an old favorite. 4” tall mound and 1’ wide topped by 12-15” bloom stems in soft pink
with a red eye. Blooms profusely in spring and sporadically in summer.
- “Firewitch”-to 8”
tall eventual spreading as wide as 3”! Handsome magenta flowers with foliage that is bluer than “Baths Pink”.
June 2010 Hosta One of the most popular
shade plants! Prized for its varying foliage that brightens up that dark corner of your garden, the Hosta is a sure eye catcher!
In the summer for several weeks your Hosta will send up thin spikes that bear white of lavender flowers which are nice,
but Hostas are generally grown for their diverse foliage.
In the fall all the leaves of the Hosta will die back
to the ground, don’t fret! Your Hosta is dormant and in spring will poke back up from the clumping roots to reveal fresh
new foliage. The leaves of Hostas can be as little as mouse ears or as large as a hubcap! The leaves may be heart shaped, oval, lance shaped or nearly round. You need to check the growth
habit on Hostas when choosing the one you want to bring home because they can grow from 2” to 48” tall, and 6”
to 5’ wide!Deer enjoy dining on Hosta, so choose your location carefully, because
if you choose to plant where deer can reach them, you will need to spray them so they don’t smell of taste like something
the deer want to eat. If you plant your Hostas in pots above ground level, this seems you deter deer. Your Hostas may also
be munched on by slugs and snails, some varieties are however more resistant to these pests than others are. A few of our favorite varieties of Hosta are:
- “Aphrodite”: a solid
light green form that grows to 24’ tall. The main feature of the “Aphrodite” is its double white very fragrant
flowers.
- “Night
Before Christmas”: Has dark green leaves with pure clean white in the centers as if a fresh winters snow has settled
into the cupped centers of the leaves. This Hosta will reach 25” tall.
- “Fire Island”: Our
personal favorite for its distinctive coloring! Unique and exciting yellow leaves with red petioles that bleed into the base
of the leaves. Plant this near a red Japanese Maple for a real show! “Fire Islands Red petioles can be better appreciated
when planted up where they can be better viewed.
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July 2010
Perennial HibiscusOne of the South’s most stunning summer
beauties! With flowers in shades of red, pink, white and many combinations of the three. These flowers can be the size of
a dinner plate and arrive in June and continue until fall. These
tropical looking plants add a dramatic accent to you landscape, use in moderation due to the bold nature of this plant. These perennial type shrubs die
to the ground in the winter in our area, and will come back up from the roots in spring. They need mostly sun to thrive. Beetles may munch on the big leaves of a hibiscus; sprinkle some Sevin-Dust on the leaves,
this usually does the job. A couple varieties we have in stock include: - “Luna
Pink Swirl” these have pink and white blooms with a red eye. These grow to about 24”-36”
tall and wide.
- “Luna Red” these are fire red solid blooms on plants
to be about 24”-36” tall and wide.
Beware: There are other types of Hibiscus considered Tropical
Hibiscus, that DO NOT over-winter; these can be identified by their shinier leaves and flower colors which can be yellows,
oranges, and reds. Perennial
hibiscus does not come in yellow or orange. There is also another type of Hibiscus to be aware of; Hibiscus syriacus, or “Rose of Sharon”.
These are a deciduous small tree or larger shrub having many smaller flowers resembling those of a Hollyhocks blooms.
AUGUST 2010 plant of the month Hydrangea Big Bold leaves with large clusters of long lasting flowers
of white, pink red or blue. Hydrangeas vary a lot from plants 1 ½’ to 10-12’ tall. Hydrangeas prefer morning sun then shade in the afternoon hot part of the day. The blooms of your
hydrangea on blue varieties can change to pink depending on the pH of the soil. Alkaline soils = pink flowers, Acidic soils
= blue flowers There are a few different forms to the flowers of Hydrangeas: Lace cap, mop head, and conical shaped.
Here is an example of each form: Lace Cap- “Lady
In Red”: 3 seasons of beauty! Interesting red stems, petioles and leaf veins with burgundy red flowers. Leaves mature
to deep rose with rich reddish purple fall foliage. Grows 4’-6- tall and wide. Mop Head- “Endless Summer”:
blooms on old and new growth extending the bloom time. This is one of those hydrangeas that the color of bloom will depend
on pH of soil. Conical Mop Head – Oak Leaf Hydrangea: deeply lobed leaves that resemble those of an Oak tree
turning crimson in fall. This Hydrangea had elongated clusters of white flowers that mature to pinkish purple.
To encourage blooms, fertilize your Hydrangeas with a low nitrogen fertilizer
with phosphorus content over 30. An N-P-K of 10-40-10 is ideal.
Click On Links Below for Articles
Naturally Drying Hydrangeas
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